Valuation Tool
A question posed time and again is how much self-built campers are worth. The simple answer is there is no simple objective answer; they’re such individual things that they’re worth exactly no more and no less than someone is prepared to pay. What may be exactly the right base vehicle / overall size combination for one person may be totally useless for the next. Of course, the same applies for every single aspect of every single build; from layout to equipment spec, to construction techniques, to materials used; the permutations are effectively endless. But… with the accepted understanding that objective valuation is - at best - an imprecise science, the spreadsheet that can be downloaded via the link below at least gives a rough idea of reasonable starting points for negotiations for both sellers and buyers. The sheet is based on empirical data but is still being developed to reflect the increasing and shifting market. If you try it and have any suggestions for modification, please let me know.
Download the Self-build Valuation Tool here - NB that to work correctly, the sheet needs to be downloaded (ie not used online) and used in conjunction with MS Excel.
Known T244 Faults
Though the T244 lends itself very well indeed to overlanding use, it’s not without known faults. An increasing number of owners report definite trends. Here are some of the more consistent issues:
|
Problem |
Description |
Solution |
|
Cab-lock buzzer |
A mysterious persistent warning buzzer in the cab accompanied with the dash-warning light (if the light is working) is usually the cab-lock switch (found behind the cab) |
Fix or replace it - some also just by-pass it but, of course, it’s there for a good reason… |
|
Cab-tilt rams |
Seals in the hydraulic rams fail and make cab-jacking unreliable / impossible |
Always use the correct hydraulic fluid (AeroShell
41 or equivalent) |
|
Clutches |
The hydraulic side is prone to fail. Slave cylinders get gunged up and seals fail |
To help ward off any problems, flush the system and renew clutch fluid |
|
Dashboard air leaks |
Hissing from behind dash or slow-to-fill air tanks |
Behind the ‘glove box’ are numerous air valves. They sometimes leak but can usually be fixed by pushing back their collets, pulling out the pipe and neatly trimming a tiny bit off the end. If this doesn’t work, the 6mm ‘O’ ring within the valve will probably need replacing. |
|
Digital odo / speedo |
The LCD odometer failing to display, or scrambling gobbledegook, is common - as is intermittent operation of the speedometer |
Replace the speedo/odo with a new unit Part
number is WWG: 437 055 005X from VDO |
|
Exhausts |
Mounts shake loose, brackets break, bell housing bolts shear, heat-shields self destruct and the flexible section splits |
An OEM 'upgrade' using a solid section and new brackets is available, but a lighter silencer is probably a better solution (and the one we've adopted) |
|
Front crank seals |
Oil sprayed all over the front of the engine - and beyond - is a sure sign your front crank seal has gone |
The seal can be replaced without taking the timing cover off but more success is likely if you replace the seal from the inside. Whilst in there - you might as well sort the ‘Killer Dowel Pin’ |
|
Front shock absorbers |
Prone to fail, symptoms include weeping oil and reduced ride quality |
Exact replacements are very difficult to find, similar items are potentially the only viable option |
|
Fuel delivery |
The standard plastic fuel lines utlise a series of 4 push-fit connections, these are unfit for purpose and can lead to introduction of air into the fuel lines, which will almost certainly - at some point - lead to a breakdown |
Replace all of the push-fit fittings and plastic
pipework immediately |
|
Gun-hatch leaks |
If water leaks in from the hatch area it’s likely to be getting past the rivnuts that are set into the hatch-mounting aperture. They are visible if you look under the rim from outside |
Seal them with Sikaflex and all will be well |
|
Killer dowel pin |
A very rare but potentially fatal problem usually associated with tuned engines |
Add a bracket or similar to hold it in place, an internet search will quickly show you how |
|
Mudwing rot |
A poor (twin plate) design around the rear mounting bracket area means water / salt / mud is collected; whereupon it rots the wings at will |
New wings are hard to find and expensive |
|
Propshaft UJs |
Prone to failure, probably due to acute angles of operation |
Keep them greased and keep an eye on them |
|
Stalling |
In a ‘perfect storm’ of the alternator and power steering pump dragging down engine revs, coupled with a closed throttle and the air compressor in full chat, the engine can stall |
Simply raise tickover a bit using the appropriate bolt on the fuel pump (different on the Lucas and Bosch pump). |
|
Throttle springs |
They break |
Rather than just replace them, include a link so that the spring isn’t so extended, this reduces fatigue |
|
Tracta joint seals |
They weep and changes in ambient temperature influence / exacerbate the issue |
Unless they are really bad it’s not worth replacing them, simply keep the hub topped up with EP90 or SAE80W/90 |
|
Transfer-box lock |
After engaging the lock it frequently sticks in and won't release, even after 'shuffling' back-and-forth |
Usually, you can manually tap / push the actuator
back up |
|
Wheel wobble |
Wheels wobbling whilst driving |
New good quality tyres help, as does paying close attention to careful and well-lubricated tube and liner mounting, ensuring that tyre beads are properly seated on the rims. Switching wheels to different corners may help. If all else fails, try dismounting tyres, moving them through 90 degrees and remounting |
|
Windscreen seals |
They leak and can lead to rusted out cab floors |
New rubbers are hard to source but Arbomast sealer provides a reasonable work around. You may need to dig old sealer out and re-apply it from time to time |