RESOURCES

Here are a few resources that you'll hopefully find useful.

The Book

During my build I constantly lamented the fact that there was a distinct shortage of reliable points of reference for anyone embarking on a self-build overland camper project. It seemed to me that a build-your-own-overlander style manual specific to larger vans and trucks was something that was most definitely missing. The most excellent people at Haynes Publishing agreed and granted me the great honour of commissioning me to write one.

Based on my involvement with my own and subsequent builds, and in consultation with others who have successfully circumnavigated the globe - plus still more who have built everything from highly successful pivoting subframes to entire travel-proven trucks - the book seeks to consolidate some very valuable (and sometimes very elusive) knowledge and expertise.

Packed with images and illustrations, as well as comprehensive text, it’s my genuine hope that it will be a massive help to anyone taking on a self-build project; not least because it should help save a substantial amount of time and cash. It's not so long ago that there was very little reliable information around. These days that's not necessarily true: but teasing it out from an internet worryingly awash with extremely dubious information is a whole different problem. Just saying...

The book is available from Haynes Publishing, most high-street booksellers or - to save time and effort - simply click here to purchase without further ado.

Valuation Tool

A question posed time and again is how much self-built campers are worth. The simple answer is there is no simple objective answer; they’re such individual things that they’re worth exactly no more and no less than someone is prepared to pay. What may be exactly the right base vehicle / overall size combination for one person may be totally useless for the next. Of course, the same applies for every single aspect of every single build; from layout to equipment spec, to construction techniques, to materials used; the permutations are effectively endless. 

But… with the accepted understanding that objective valuation is - at best - an imprecise science, the spreadsheet that can be downloaded via the link below at least gives a rough idea of reasonable starting points for negotiations for both sellers and buyers. The sheet is based on empirical data but is still being developed to reflect the increasing and shifting market. If you try it and have any suggestions for modification, please let me know.

 
Download the Self-build Valuation Tool here - NB that to work correctly, the sheet needs to be downloaded (ie not used online) and used in conjunction with MS Excel.

Known T244 Faults

Though the T244 lends itself very well indeed to overlanding use, it’s not without known faults. An increasing number of owners report definite trends. Here are some of the more consistent issues:

Problem		Description		Solution
Cab-lock buzzer		A mysterious persistent warning buzzer in the cab accompanied with the dash-warning light (if the light is working) is usually the cab-lock switch (found behind the cab)		Fix or replace it - some also just by-pass it but, of course, it’s there for a good reason…
Cab-tilt rams		Seals in the hydraulic rams fail and make cab-jacking unreliable / impossible		Always use the correct hydraulic fluid (AeroShell 41 or equivalent). The rams are not serviceable - but I know a man that can…
Clutches		The hydraulic side is prone to fail. Slave cylinders get gunged up and seals fail		To help ward off any problems, flush the system and renew clutch fluid.
Dashboard air leaks		Hissing from behind dash or slow-to-fill / quick to empty air tanks		Behind the ‘glove box’ are numerous air valves. They sometimes leak but can usually be fixed by pushing back their collets, pulling out the pipe and neatly trimming a tiny bit off the end. If this doesn’t work, the ‘O’ ring within the valve will probably need replacing.
Digital odo / speedo		The LCD odometer failing to display, or scrambling gobbledegook, is common - as is intermittent operation of the speedometer		Replace the speedo/odo with a new unit Part number is WWG: 437 055 005X from VDO. Some use a gps-based replacement instead.
Exhausts		Mounts shake loose, brackets break, bell housing bolts shear, heat-shields self destruct and the flexible section splits		An OEM 'upgrade' using a solid section and new brackets is available, but a lighter silencer is probably a better solution (and the one we've adopted).
Front crank seals		Oil sprayed all over the front of the engine - and beyond - is a sure sign your front crank seal has gone		The seal can be replaced without taking the timing cover off but more success is likely if you replace the seal from the inside. Whilst in there - you might as well sort the ‘Killer Dowel Pin’.
Front shock absorbers		Prone to fail, symptoms include weeping oil and reduced ride quality		Exact replacements are difficult to find, similar items are potentially the only viable option.
Fuel delivery		The standard plastic fuel lines utlise a series of 4 push-fit connections, these are unfit for purpose and can lead to introduction of air into the fuel lines, which will almost certainly - at some point - lead to a breakdown		Replace all of the push-fit fittings and plastic pipework immediately. Use proper compression fittings and good quality pipe from any hydraulic hose specialist.
Gun-hatch leaks		If water leaks in from the hatch area it’s likely to be getting past the rivnuts / moulding scalops that are set into the hatch-mounting aperture. They are visible if you look under the rim from outside		Seal them with Sikaflex and all will be well.
Killer dowel pin		A very rare but potentially fatal problem usually associated with tuned engines		Add a bracket or similar to hold it in place, an internet search will quickly show you how.
Mudwing rot		A poor (twin plate) design around the rear mounting bracket area means water / salt / mud is collected; whereupon it rots the wings at will		New wings are hard to find and expensive. If repairing them, grind off the outermost part of the rear bracket and double-skinned plate, it’s not required for support and removing it eliminates the worst of the dirt / water traps.
Propshaft UJs		Prone to failure, probably due to acute angles of operation		Keep them greased and keep an eye on them.
Stalling		In a ‘perfect storm’ of the alternator and power steering pump dragging down engine revs, coupled with a closed throttle and the air compressor in full chat, the engine can stall		Simply raise tickover a bit using the appropriate bolt on the fuel pump (different on the Lucas and Bosch pump).
Throttle springs		They break		Rather than just replace them, include a link so that the spring isn’t so extended, this reduces fatigue.
Tracta joint seals		They weep and changes in ambient temperature influence / exacerbate the issue		Unless they are really bad it’s not worth replacing them, simply keep the hub topped up with EP90 or SAE80W/90.
Transfer-box lock		After engaging the lock it frequently sticks in and won't release, even after 'shuffling' back-and-forth		Usually, you can manually tap / push the actuator back up. Regular engagement / disengagement will help ward off sticking.
Wheel wobble		Wheels wobbling whilst driving		New good quality tyres help, as does paying close attention to careful and well-lubricated tube and liner mounting, ensuring that tyre beads are properly seated on the rims. Switching wheels to different corners may help. If all else fails, try dismounting tyres, moving them through 90 degrees and remounting.
Windscreen seals		They leak and can lead to rusted out cab floors		New rubbers are hard to source but Arbomast sealer provides a reasonable work around You may need to dig old sealer out and re-apply it from time to time.