Blogging at 21:45 on Thursday 4th April from N 58.99458°, W 02.97323° / http://maps.google.com/maps?q=loc:58.99458%2C-02.97323
We awoke this morning to even more extreme wintry conditions. It was snowing... but it didn't really matter: there was no chance of it settling as the wind was still so violent that the snow was literally blowing horizontally and directly out to sea.
Thankfully, come around 08:30 the sideways snow stopped and we then only had to contend with the flesh-peeling wind.
Morning was, then, a truck-bound affair and featured another slow and steady bumble; this time right down to the south of Orkney, but stopping regularly on the way at favourable looking places to spot birds, mammals and generally gaze out seaward. To add to the sightings of note we saw loads of long-tailed ducks, more red-throated divers and (I think) a black-throated diver, too.
We reached the south of the islands by lunchtime and, thank goodness, the winds started to ease so we were able to wander about outside reasonably comfortably. From the south of Orkney it was good to be able to look back at John o' Groats and Duncansby Head lighthouse; only 11km or so across the sea. In 2012 - on our maiden run out in the truck - we'd been to those very places and looked wistfully in the direction of the Northern Isles. It felt good to have closed that particular circle.
Post lunch we made our way back north and then to the easternmost point of the connected Orkneys, luckily spotting a short-eared owl hunting by day en route.
The eastern part of the connected island was, I think, my favourite part. I though the landscape and habitats a little more varied and the general area was possibly even quieter and less trammel than any we'd visited to this point.
A massive bonus was that the weather continued to improve and from mid-afternoon onwards we even enjoyed some sunshine. The wind remained cold but it didn't deter us from seizing the day and going out for a blast around on the push bikes. Normality!
Post ride we spent a few very chilled hours at a superb little spot gazing out to sea (pic). The land abutting the bay we were on was a mix of arable and rough pasture and it supported a massive array of birdlife. We were even privileged to have another short-eared owl hunting right by the truck for a good chunk of the time we were there.
As well as birds, there were dozens of mountain hares and rabbits grazing the land. Fairly unusually, many of the rabbits were black and there was also one very light cream one amongst them. Some mischievous gene or other seemed to be afoot.
Out to sea there was just as much going on with eiders, long-tailed ducks, and red-throated divers being the more notable amongst the species out there. At one point, one of the numerous seals around and about caught a fish and was munching away on it at the surface and - for it's troubles - started being mobbed by several species of gull trying to swipe the catch. There wasn't much chance, though and even a couple of great black-backs were easily seen off by the understandably grumpy mammal. It was a wrench to leave that particular spot, it had all the makings of a superb overnighter.
We're at the coordinates shown now, hunkered down close to the port in Kirkwall, from where we're hopefully going to sail from at 23:45 tonight: destination Shetland.
We've really enjoyed Orkney and our initial impressions have been borne out. It's civilised, quiet, welcoming, well kept, and altogether a bit of a gem. The wildlife is abundant and excellent, and there's also a fair chunk of cultural history stuff to take in, too. It's well worth a visit!
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